I'll write more about my recent trip to Japan soon. In the meantime, I thought I'd write down some advice before I forgot it. This will help me the next time I go, because I'm sure by then I will have forgotten my experience and repeated the same mistakes.
In no particular order:
1)
No need for a giant backpack. I brought a large backpack, a smaller (or "regular-sized") backpack and an over-the-shoulder insulated bag. Most of the time I kept the smaller backpack inside the larger one and just carried the insulated bag with me for a drink, a towel, the guidebook, suntan lotion and my passport. What I discovered is that, since the luggage really only went from the train to the hotel (or inn), a smaller bag with wheels would've been just fine. In fact, I think having the large backpack made me think I could bring more things, but ultimately they were unnecessary. Pack light, and plan on staying somewhere with laundry (or bring thin clothes which will dry overnight in your hotel room).
2) Plan ahead - but don't over-plan. My personal, romantic notion about traveling is that you can just hop on a plane/train, go somewhere, and then make all the necessary arrangements after you arrive. I also prefer the idea that "being on vacation" means that you should relax and not be stressed out about seeing every touristy site that a particular destination offers. However, this recent trip to Japan has taught me that it is good to have a general plan in mind before you go, even if it is for just one touristy thing a day. Also, it would've saved a lot of time if we had planned our route in advance and contacted those cities for maps, bus schedules and places to stay ahead of time.
3) Buy a JR Rail Pass. Because I hadn't planned my trip out in advance, I had a skewed notion of when and where I'd be traveling. I was going to be in country for 15 days, but I thought I wouldn't be traveling the whole time, so I bought a JR rail pass for 7 days instead of 14. Big mistake. Be sure to buy a rail pass for the entire time you are there, because you will be riding JR trains and busses a lot, and paying for each trip can get very expensive. Also, with a rail pass you can always choose to get a reserved seat and not have to stand in line on the platform and rush on to the train for an unreserved seat.
4) Bring enough money. Yes, you can use a Visa card for bigger purchases like tickets and hotels, but if you bring cash then you won't have to worry about running out. Without train fares, I'd say budgeting 6000 yen a day would be plenty. Having said that, there are ways to live/travel cheaply, and post office ATM's will allow you to use your bank card from back home to take out money.
5) Learn to play "Match the Kanji." If you don't know, the Japanese use four writing systems: Kanji (Chinese characters), Hiragana, Katakana and Roman letters (English). The middle two are simplified versions of the Kanji, where each character represents a letter or syllable; the Katakana alphabet is used for words that have been borrowed from foreign languages. (The word "ramen" is actually borrowed from the Chinese, so when you see it written outside of ramen shops, the characters are in Katakana.) Anyway, my point is that, if you can't read Kanji (or the other alphabets), then it helps to be able to memorize the way a character looks and then match it to something else. For example, many restaurants will have plastic displays of their food in the window with the name of that dish written in Kanji. Simply find a dish that looks good, memorize the Kanji, and match that word to the Japanese menu inside. When you find it, you can just point to the item in the menu and say please. Another example: many town maps are written only in Japanese. Find the Kanji of the place you want to go and memorize how it looks. Then when you're walking around town, you can look at street signs, match the Kanji and get to where you want to go.
6) Bring a hand towel. Fans of The Hitch-hiker's Guide to the Galaxy will find this piece of advice funny, but you should always carry a small towel with you. Most public toilets in Japan do not have any way to dry your hands, so a towel is important if you don't want to dry your hands on your clothes. Also, Japan is a very humid country, so if you travel any time from spring to fall, you might want a small towel to wipe away the sweat.
7) Stay at a business hotel. You should go to Japan and plan on staying at least a few nights in a ryokan (Japanese inn) if you can't arrange a home-stay. You'll most likely have a great experience, and you'll get to see more of what Japan is really like. That said, a cheap business hotel like the Tokyu Inn is a great deal and very practical. We stayed at a few of them during our travels, and each one was of predictably good quality. The Tokyu Inns usually have refrigerators in the room, free internet and laundry machines in the lobby, not to mention breakfast included with the cost. Any time you're not staying at a ryokan, temple, or with a family, I'd recommend the Tokyu Inn.
8) Get gay advice before you go. OK, that sounds strange, but what I meant is that you should get all the info you need about gay destinations ahead of time. Unless you're bringing a laptop and can use it in your room, computer use is usually public (hotel lobbies), and looking at explicit sites is frowned upon. Also, most guidebooks hardly mention anything at all about gay bars or hotels, so you're not going to get any help from them. I found the website "utopia" to be particularly helpful. I was only able to make it to one gay destination in Osaka while I was there, but it was excellent, and I would never have found it if it weren't for utopia.
9) Don't lose you train tickets. When traveling by train, you have to show your ticket in order to get on the train, and then you have to show your ticket to get off the train. (In the case of a local ticket, you put the ticket in at one end of the machine, and it pops out the other. At the end of your trip, put the ticket in the machine and it stays in there.) This is true even when you are transferring from one train line to another. I wasted frantic minutes trying to figure out what the station master was asking for before I figured out that I had to show him my ticket from an earlier trip in addition to the ticket I had to show him to get on the next train.
10) It's not better or worse, it's just different. Much of Japanese culture seems so familiar to western eyes, yet most of it is very different. In fact, it's sometimes tempting to think of aspects of Japanese culture as being "backward" or impractical or silly. Please don't make that mistake. If you're in Japan and feeling contempt for the people or culture, it's time for you to go. Obviously this is good advice for traveling anywhere, but it seems that foreigners in Japan are particularly prone to this. Yes, they wear t-shirts with bad English written on them; that doesn't mean they are stupid. The person I traveled with had lived in Japan for five years, and every snide comment he made about the Japanese seemed contemptuous. I don't know if he even recognized what he was doing, but it was sure annoying to me.
11) Cover up the tattoos. Despite its history as an art form, tattooing in Japan is now frowned upon and mostly considered a sign of trouble (the Japanese gangsters, the yakuza, are notorious for the tattoos that cover their backs). If you plan on going to onsen (hot springs) or sento (public baths), then bring some bandages that will cover your tattoos. Generally I had no trouble at any of the onsen we visited, but at two of the sento there were clear rules that no tattoos of any size were allowed. I got away with it at Spa World (in Sendai, I believe) and was only asked to leave after I had finished. But at a wonderful public bath in Aomori, I didn't see the sign banning tattoos, and I was asked to leave before I was ready. Two bandages would've solved that problem.
12) Know your schedule before going to bed. This goes back to planning ahead, but you should know what you're going to do the next day before going to bed. Most importantly, if your plans involve any kind of public transportation, you should know the bus/train schedule before you go to bed. We generally had an idea of what we were going to do, but we rarely checked the schedule. There were many days when we got up, made our way to the station and discovered that the bus or train we needed had already left, or that the next one would be in an hour. A lot of time would've been saved if we had known our schedule in advance.
13) Get ready for some walking. Unless your vacation involves a tropical country and sitting on a beach for a week, no matter where you go you're probably going to do more walking than you do in your 'normal' life. Plan ahead. Exercise to get your legs more used to the work, and be sure to have at least one pair of shoes with good support. Oh yeah, and bring small band-aids. I followed my own advice and bought new shoes for my trip, I even broke them in. Despite that, I still got painful blisters on three of my toes (my traveling companion also had blisters, but he didn't have new shoes and he was also used to walking quite a bit) and had to buy bandages at a convenience store.